“The art of the fiesta has been debased almost everywhere else, but not in Mexico.” – Octavio Paz

If you like to party, Mexico is the place for you! In every town we have been there is always some sort of festival or celebration going on. As one event is wrapping up the next is being planned or is already underway. Three months ago, the short and loud bang of a firecracker in the afternoon was enough to make you hit the floor. Now, it is as familiar as roosters crowing in the early morning, dogs barking, or someone laying on the horn in traffic.

The holidays we have experienced outside of Canada have been memorable for us – mostly because it is a new and very different experience. Christmas was the most recent, and, as you could imagine, it was a serious fiesta. Yet, there was still something missing for us. In our opinion, it just isn’t Christmas without snow, a fireplace, and our friends & family.

So far, our favourite holiday experience has been Dia de los Muertos. Translated to English, Day of the Dead is a holiday dedicated to honouring and praying for lost loved ones. It is a time for joyous celebration; with lots of food, drinks, music and activities. From what we understand – keeping in mind that they celebrate it differently all over the country – it is believed on October 31st the gates of heaven open at midnight and allow all spirits of deceased children to be reunited with their families for 24 hours. On November 2nd, the spirits of the adults come down to join the celebration.

We spent the night of the 31st in San Cristóbal de las Casas, wandering the streets and taking in the festivities. The parade, food, music and dancing, all added to the happy and festive atmosphere.

The next day we made our way to San Juan Chamula – a small village outside of San Cristobal known for their fierce independence and use of unique religious practices. We had come to see the church – Iglesia San Juan – a popular stop for tourists. Pictures are forbidden inside, but it left a powerful impression that we won’t soon forget. When we walked inside, the first thing we noticed was the of candles that filled the room. It was incredibly stunning. The floor was covered in pine bows, like a carpet, and people were kneeling and chanting in semi-circles throughout the room. Rumour has it that they still do animal sacrifices here – although we didn’t get the opportunity to witness this for ourselves.

On our way out of town we noticed a lot of activity at the cemetery. A few locals had recommended the cemeteries are the place to go if we truly want to experience Dia de los Muertos. So, of course, we had to check it out.

There were many people in and around the cemetery. As we scanned the gravestones we got a glimpse into the different emotions. In one corner a mariachi band was playing and people were dancing. In another, a family was gathered drinking beer and talking amongst themselves. Beside them was a woman in a breakdown of tears and struggling for breath. The different stages of grief were plain to see.

The cemetery had been beautifully decorated with pine bows for the event, but it was difficult to appreciate the intended effect with the amount of garbage left behind. We have yet to fully understand the reasons for littering, but this is part of a much bigger problem that can not be explained in a small paragraph.

I suggested heading down to the cemetery to get a closer look. Ten minutes later, there was a sudden change of events when I was struck by a rock in my left side. Stunned, I looked in the direction from which it came and saw a lady quickly walking towards us. This woman was clearly upset. As she approached, she raised her hand, preparing to strike. But fortunately for me, she thought better of it. She continued to yell and I quickly understood she was upset I was taking photos. I put my camera away, apologized profusely and scurried away, dumbfounded.

I tried to reassure myself I wasn’t in the wrong by pointing out that both locals and tourists were taking pictures within the cemetery and surrounding hillside. Not to mention, only minutes before, another woman had insisted I take her photo as a souvenir. However, after further reflection, I became terribly embarrassed for this unintended offence. Although, I do not endorse throwing rocks at people, I am empathetic in this woman’s grief. It was ignorant of me to take photos of such an intimate gathering just because others were. This confrontation will now serve as a reminder that some things are better left experienced in the moment.