After a few weeks of buses and taxis, a certain lack of freedom was prevailing. Not being able to go where we want, when we want is a new thing for us; not to mention the main bus routes take you from one city to the next, skipping the small towns and hidden gems. So we decided to look into renting a car. At least for a few days. Some quick online searches turned up the typical warnings and bad reviews of renting a car in Mexico.

“The cars are cheap but the hidden fees will triple the price.”

”The roads and other drivers are terrible.”
“There is a good chance of highway robbery if you venture off the beaten path.”

Unsatisfied with these results, we hit the streets to do some price shopping. The only thing we knew for sure was that we needed a 0% deductible on the insurance. As we approached the zone of rental agencies, we were intercepted by street “agents” offering the best deals. No surprise here. With nothing to lose (but our money and possibly our lives) we followed along. After two very unofficial rental locations, we decided to see what the guy with an office and a computer had to say. Honestly, the turn off was not the rusty clipboard, or back alley tactics, it was the 10% deductible. After two stops, and some quick price checking, we found what we were looking for. Freedom, wrapped in the shell of a shitty american sedan. Before we knew it the wheels were turning, now, where to point them?

We decided to take a little afternoon road trip to the coast. The comfort and familiarity was immediate, we may be in Mexico but it was very Canadian in this car. As we sped down the highway, blaring The Tragically Hip (RIP Gord Downie), something clicked, and we started to think bigger. The next morning we drove back to the rental agency and extended our 4 days into 16. With a bold new outlook, we penciled our route on the map, and set sail for adventure.

Part 1: El Diablo Rojo

Our only destination before leaving the Yucatan was Rio Lagartos and El Cuyo. We had researched these areas prior to our trip, but due to bus route complications decided to skip it. Now with the opportunity, we had to go. It was a pleasant drive to reach Rio Lagartos. Alternating between podcasts and local radio to pass the time. The roadkill we are used to – like, raccoons and deer – was replaced by massive snakes who couldn’t slither fast enough. And the occasional crab crawling across the road – oh wait, that’s a spider.

After finding a hotel within our budget in Rio Largartos, we met a Polish couple travelling through the area. We quickly found common ground and became friends. Pioter and Zosia had been travelling the world for over a year and we were interested to learn all about it. Rather than them paying for a tour the following day, we decided to go together to see the flamingos and pink lakes of Las Coloradas. And just like that, off we drove the next day, with our new Polish friends. The pink lakes were a cool sight, and the flamingos added to the experience.

Afterwards, we had a nice quiet drive on the highway to reach El Cuyo for lunch. We dropped our friends off on the way to Playa Del Carmen, had a nice dinner, and called it a night. By mere coincidence, we met another couple at dinner who had completed the same route. And even stranger yet, they were Canadian, with two Polish hitchhikers. Their tale was quite different than ours. If we remember properly, it went something like this:



*Please Note: This is told in first person for ease of storytelling.*

“Las Coloradas was great and we were not in a rush to get to El Cuyo. So, why not take the scenic route? A forty kilometre stretch of unpaved road along the coast. With the ocean breeze coming in our window from the left, and the flamingo dotted lagoon on the right, our happy group cruised along. This sandy road was a fun change from the pavement. Small puddles for the first half of the drive slowly became larger ones, covering the width of the road. Finally some fun and adventure, dodging mud holes and slowly creeping through the flooded sections of road. About halfway we passed the only other vehicle we had or would see. A large military truck that looked capable of driving straight through the amazon jungle. I felt a little inadequate in our small car. The driver shot me a stern look, as if to say, “you have no business on this road, but you’ll find that out soon enough.””

“It didn’t take too long before it was necessary to walk the waters ahead of the car. There were hidden holes in the muddy stretches of water that would surely swallow the car. But, with our trusty Polish scout walking ahead and finding all the hidden dangers, we crept along. This was exciting! The driving style gradually changed from caring about the rental car to caring whether we made it to our destination. Turning back was an option, but the last resort. So we made our way, one swamp to the next. That is until we found ourselves looking at a lake. The lagoon had flooded completely over the road, just water as far as the eye can see. Like I said, turning back was the last resort, we had already came this far. We walked it first, to see what we were up against. It was solid kilometre of water, and there were many holes just waiting to ruin our day. After carefully mentally mapping the route, I decided to give it a shot. I had plenty of time to think it through on the wade back to the car. Sure, crossing this in a car, with bald tires is not wise. However, I was satisfied this could be done, with the possible consequences non-life-threatening.”

“Just as planned, we made it through. We felt home free, as the map showed only a few kilometres to go. Then came the final test, a deeply rutted greasy mud hole. The threat of being hung up here was greater than any of the water crossings. Now having to remove all emotional attachment to the car, which I had dubbed “El Diablo Rojo” (The Red Devil), I floored it like this was the dakar rally. We bounced through with a vengeance, and made it to the other side. Haha! We are unstoppable!…..Wait, what’s that noise. A quick inspection revealed the side wall of the rear passenger tire shredded. I quickly jumped to action and had the spare on in five minutes before anyone had time to panic, or be eaten alive by the millions of carnivorous mosquitos. Luckily, this was indeed the final test.”

“We limped our mud covered mess of a car into El Cuyo, squeaking like hell from the salt water submersion. The feeling of triumph was quickly followed by the inevitable “oh shit” moment. We haven’t had this car for more than three days and it’s trashed. Well not completely, just in need of a new tire and a good wash. But there was no way we were going to drive like this for the next 12 days. Thanks to our smart planning and insistence on the 0% deductible, we should be okay. Providing we can clean this mess up and prove this happened on pavement.”

After hearing this tale of misadventure, we were glad that we took the responsible route and stayed on the highway. But thinking that possibly red cars might be bad luck, we exchanged ours for a silver one.

Come back next week for Part Two of this story, “La Bala de Plata” (The Silver Bullet).